Went to malham cove the other week with Matt Capsey. Twas exiting to get out on to some proper limestone, which i had never climbed on being as the moors limestone lacks 'togetherness' and solidarity. The weather wasnt forcast for the best but even so, it wasnt raining. Matt lead some VS on right wing, either 'clubfoot' or 'swingover' and then we headed over to try to 'the cavern', a two pitch HVS. Matt lead the first pitch featuring a distinct lack of gear, up a tenuos slab and then over a roof to the cave belay. Then I began to lead up the second pitch. I made it out of the cave and into a high neiche but then it began to tip it down. Next was a polished slabby traverse with no gear so i decended to the belay and we abbed off.
Then we slid down to the bolted sport routes at the bottom, which provide some amusement but no 'serious' climbing. We climbed what has to be the best route there 'begozi and the ledge lizards' and then went to try 'hyperspace' which was finaly dispatched after the initial soap bar start. The top was especially interesting featuring a 5 metre run out off the top bolt into a chossy finish.
Malham is and interesting place.... Many of the routes seem to be polished to buggery however each is quite good. The bolted routes are pretty odd as there arnt many really significant features which make lines stand out, or so i thought anway. I am looking forward to going back for the trad though.
Also big respect to John Dunne.......