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Friday, 22 July 2011

Danby Headpointing

On sunday I headed over to 'the other side' to meet 'hang-over' and 'polish?' to see what the beans was a Danby Crag. Franco had been telling me about his new aretes he had found at the crag and reckoned i'd have a chance on some of them?! First, Dave got on his wall project, 'The Polish Diplomat' (H4/5)E5 6a/b.

Then I attempted to second it......

And failed.

Then, I had a go at 'Jungle drum', (H4)E5 6a/b which I found easier.
Franco on the hard rockover.

Hopefully I'll be able to lead it next time after I linked it second go on shunt, which feels really good considering I didnt think i would be climbing anywhere near this grade for a while get, even headpoint.

Franco went to shunt one of his arete projects and i lead valiant, the classic 'VS 4c' more like a mild HVS 5a.


Then, to finish off the day, we had a go at top-roping the uterly deperate 'blunt arete' project which features easier laybacking into a 6a/b move and finally into a 7a?+ dyno for the finishing edge...... No wonder we couldnt do it!

Good day, Danby is where the British trad scene is at right now though!

Sunday, 3 July 2011

Peak Scar Epics

On thursday and friday, I went to Peak scar with Jake Hampshire to get in some more practice with longer routes ready for the lakes. I started up Jordu.

After a few more leads we decided to head out on the 10 pitch girdle traverse.... 'Muligan Mania'
Jake looking happy on the traverse.....

Overall, we were on the wall for a few hours befor we finished up 'Jam with Sam' when it started to pour down.

After this, we were joined my Matt Capsey who lead birdland direct. Then I lead solitude placeing 4 bits of gear in 25 metres, plus a comedy hex in a tree route......

We bivid at the top of the crag and the next day, woke up to good weather and bacon.
Jake lead solitude, placeing a similar amount of gear, and then I started up 'wings' but ended up forging my own way up, creating a new variation first pitch. I belayed on the block under 'BBC' which has to the best belay on the crag with views to bilsdale. Jake lead the second pitch but 'forgot' the intended line stepped leaft at the top, avoiding a large ovehang, which Jake attemted to climb. The first time, he fell off, but after a bit of encouragement, he succeeded, making our new route variation - 'Freebird' VS 4c *** which takes in some of the best positions on the crag and you have to cut loose right at the top, with 90 feet of thin air below your feet.

Overall it was a pretty good trip, with some great climbing and a new route done.

clemmits failure, camp hill success

Last saturady, I was kindly offered a lift by two of the hull crew, James Oakes and Billy Lawrence. The plan was clemmitts crag. When we arrived, we started on the nice slabs, after that we went up to fryup wall but the recent rain had taken its toll and seepage was appearing. Then we went to the traverse on the ground force block which was also damp. After that we went down to 'sam's slab' where much banter was exchanged about me looking fat in the picture of me on my route.

After this, we went over to camp hill, i did my usuall easy solos and then soloed tempest again, a really good route and a sand bag at VS 5a. Also, i managed to onsight the direct start of cling wrap up to the flake which goes at 6a which i was pretty pleased about. Then we went below the crag to try a dyno and i tried another problem which i promtley fell off on, scraping much of the skin from my shin onto a rock below......

Overall it was a good day featuring much injury.