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Sunday, 3 July 2011

Peak Scar Epics

On thursday and friday, I went to Peak scar with Jake Hampshire to get in some more practice with longer routes ready for the lakes. I started up Jordu.

After a few more leads we decided to head out on the 10 pitch girdle traverse.... 'Muligan Mania'
Jake looking happy on the traverse.....

Overall, we were on the wall for a few hours befor we finished up 'Jam with Sam' when it started to pour down.

After this, we were joined my Matt Capsey who lead birdland direct. Then I lead solitude placeing 4 bits of gear in 25 metres, plus a comedy hex in a tree route......

We bivid at the top of the crag and the next day, woke up to good weather and bacon.
Jake lead solitude, placeing a similar amount of gear, and then I started up 'wings' but ended up forging my own way up, creating a new variation first pitch. I belayed on the block under 'BBC' which has to the best belay on the crag with views to bilsdale. Jake lead the second pitch but 'forgot' the intended line stepped leaft at the top, avoiding a large ovehang, which Jake attemted to climb. The first time, he fell off, but after a bit of encouragement, he succeeded, making our new route variation - 'Freebird' VS 4c *** which takes in some of the best positions on the crag and you have to cut loose right at the top, with 90 feet of thin air below your feet.

Overall it was a pretty good trip, with some great climbing and a new route done.

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