In the easter holidays, three looneys went on a quest to find climbing on the gritstone outcrops of the peak disrtict. The trip needed great planning and attension to detail.
Frankly, This is the best climbing trip I have ever been on, and for that matter its the only multi day climbing trip i've been on, but it was awesome!
The plan was to go to stanage, then burbage, then millstone.
Then the plan became stanage, millstone, lawrencefield,
After that, It became stanage, millstone
And finnally, it became Stanage.
The first day, we were kindly given a lift to the peak district from Toms mum who happened to be going to 'Donny' that same day. We started off near the spectacular routes of arche angel and don, of course we climbed both onsight, solo. ;)
So we did some climbing and soloing around Hot spur area, Then there was a rain shower so we started to eat some ration and fancying out chances, had a go on Brad Pit, which we almost nailed first go but had to settle for defeat ;) (Those holds look a lot bigger on the video)
Then I had a little epic on fern crack as the sun came out and after that, Jake Hampshire made a rather bold ascent of wall end slab, placing too bits of gear in total, one which got very stuck. both were at arounb one third height. We also got a bit scared on creasant arete. All this grit arete smeary lay back crap it actually quite tricky!
Also we tried careless talk which was pretty tough as well. Gotta be in it to win it!
Then we looked up at goliaths grove and Tower face and became fairly de-psyced for climbing and so messed about with our wire brushes and ice axes on 'the pebble' boulder.
Next, we had, 'the quest to find a bivvy' and settled for a nice small cave to sqeeze three in with a shelltered eating area and also a dish washer and kitchen sink.
After tea, it got dark and we went dwon for a night sesh on the pebble, it was dark. We enjoyed the slabby climbs on the lower side and found out how hard deliverence is just to get on it but how easy it is with a set of crampons, some ice axes, a bolt dril and some three step aiders.
I was psyced for bed.
So we went back to the bivvy and slept. Which seemed easy for the other two, deep insode the cave, but unfortuanately for me in my 1/2 season sleeping bag or whatnot, I was sat right in a wind tunnel, added to by Tom's simphony of trumps, composed through the night. (Dear pasta and source, what is really in your meals)
The next morning we arose and were met by the Stanage Ranger........
At first he seemed wheary and asked us questions and noted answers in his notebook. Then he lightened up and seemed amused by Toms greeting as his head popped out from the cave. Any way, he said it was fine and told us we could stay as long as we liked!
The day began with Tom leading and some random solos just out of plantation.
Then I lead August arete (HVS 5b) which was my favourite route over all and i think is worth *** especially as you gain the second to last break above poor gear, then place good pro and run it out to the top.
Jake also lead what is possibly the bouldest HS I have ever seen!
Then we headed back down to the pebble and climbed some of the problems which were quite good but in my opinion are not comparable to most of the problems on the moors! We also met a chap with a bright yellow mat and discovered a new breed of Human known as 'The pander twats'.
After this I decided not to try billiard butress and soloed this Mitch Pitch which was HVS in our guide but when i got home, found out i'd actually soloed an E1, Yes!
Also I got scared on some other climb and ended up doing a diff.
In the evening, we soloed on the small butresses between plantation and popular which was fun and then went to bed.
Jake then got a bit scared and so lead some moderate.
And finnaly we climbed the louisiana rib which finished off what was a fantastic and memorable trip!
P.S. Tom, you should do some more leading, its really fun, honest!
P.P.S. No bolts, pitongs, three step aiders, wire brushes or ice tools were used on this trip.