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Sunday, 18 September 2011

Wet Wainstones

Went back to the wainstones, this time with Rory, with four intensions.

1. Attempt 'Ali Baba'
2. Do 'Pebble climb'
3. Attempt 'West sphinx'
4. Solo the 'sphinx nose traverse'

So i'd turned up with great intensions and didn't expect to manage them all. We started off by soloing a few of the trade routes, with wall and ledge and east sphinx direct becoming a bit of a tradition!

We then met some nice chaps who I ended up giving a tour of the boulders. They were looking for something 'ard so I pointed them in the directions of 'For leichenstein' 'The prow', 'The right side of the prow???' and 'The Finger'

Rory had a go at a few of the classic lines and then I made a keen repeat ascent of 'central route' (this time with a bit less sloper grunt).

Shortly after, I bumped into Jason Wood, someone i'd heard about and always wanted to meet. He showed me a few of the exellent boulder problems such as 'The shelf' and showed me the way on 'Pebble climb'.

My next objective was to climb either ali baba, or west sphinx. It had been drissleing on and off all morning and I thought the entry groove to ali baba might be a bit slippy, so west sphinx it was! So, anyway, as I racked up, It began to rain, at first I thought this a bit of a pour excuse, but then I looked what looked like a rock over move I would have to do, and decided to sack it off :P.

After a quick look at the prow, we walked along to ravenscar to 'have a look'. No suprise it was wet, especially the top of satchmo which would have been my objective. Then it began to rain harder and so we did a bit of bouldering around the 'ahab' area. The direct start made a good problem at about english 6a, although i didnt fully top out ahab due to the waterfall.....
bouldering around ahab
We also had a go at a dino at the start of 'Rock Bottom' from the first good break to the next, although we never completed it as what looks good is infact sloping! One to come back to.

dynoing from large break to the break above, looked positive, infact sloping!

Overall, a bit of a failure in terms of objectives ticked, but actually turned out quite well, meeting some sound people and propably gaining some strength.

Then, to top it off, we missed the last bus. Doh!

Hair line crack in the bench waiting for dad to pick us up! we aided across it, *** aid route, will make a hard project, there are now holds in the form of peg scars ;)

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