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Tuesday, 20 September 2011

Summer Round up.

The summer has just about drawn to a close so here's a summary of what's gone down!

It started off with a pretty successful trip to Peak scar, we had a crack at the 'classic' traverse of 'muligan mania', almost reaching the end!




And climbed a new route, 'Freebird' VS 4c*** a two or maybe three star route, basically a more direct version of 'wings', but with an ace position at the top of the route!


Mean while, Franco and Dave had 'returned' and were climbing several hard new routes at Danby. Whilst I was there Dave made the F.A. of 'The Polish Diplomat' E5 6b* A fairly bold wall climb with a horrendous last move.

I went on to climb the classic, 'Valliant' HVS 5a***


One of the highlights of the summer was the Lakes trip with Jake. Visiting Shepherds Crag, Quay foot Butress and Wodens Face, climbing some of the easier multi pitch classics.


Pitch 2 of 'Little Chamonix' our first route!


Top Pitch.


Jake leading 'Brown slabs arete' Best route of the trip?



We climbed 7 routes all together, most being pretty memorable! Ended up being a 12 hour day climbing!

The second day, we visited the superb quay foot buttress and very popular, but not quite so good wodens face.

Fantastic Trip!


Me and Matt had a bit of an 'experience' with the mountain rescue at oak crag while trying to gatecrash the cmc meat!


Ive had a few trips to whitestone cliffe, once with Jake and once with 'climbing elders' ;) Matt and John.
I climbed one of the best routes Ive done, 'Nightwatch' The best crack climb in Northern England?

We found a bomber cam too ;)


On my second visit, we climbed in the dark which made me realise just how great it is to be climbing instead of sat at home watching the TV! Made an amusing excuse for not doing my homework the next day too!

The second major trip of the summer was to Jersey with Jake.

Stop off at Hay Tor.

Our first climb of the trip was an ace three pitch multi pitch route. The longest route I've done and our first sea cliff!

We visited several ace crags! Belayed from a few 'exposed' belay ledges.....

And I did my first E2! Jersey Girl, cracking!

Jersey Girl Buttress.

Couldn't believe how ace granite was! had too come back to the sandstone though ;)

Almost as soon as I got back, I had a productive evening at Park Nab climbing some of the classics.

'The moors crew' meet at Ravenswick Quarry.

Later in the week I cadged a lift from Franco and Dave to Round Crag. There sights were set on their ground up project on the 'lion butress'

Their previous attempts in the dark had failed and so back again it was to try it. The line is an excellent slabby wall with tiny holds and fantastic moves and with gear in a good break, it makes a good ground up project.

They both had several attempts until finally Dave climbed it using a new sequence, closely followed by Franco. I then decided I may as well have a go, despite being no E5 leader. I managed the first hard move to a small crimp but from this I fell numerous times. Eventually, it ended with me taking a stupid fall and bashing my shin on a ledge, the remains of which are still heeling! The name of 'Mane Vision' was settled with the grade, E5 6c.


The rockover, but not the crux!

I met up with Franco and Dave again and we headed for High Crag which proved fruitful (for me at least!)


Warrior E2 5c***

I climbed warrior, my second E2 and a damn good one at that, and also climbed 'Kestrel Crack' HVS 5b, now E1 5b, both routes being a fantastic challenge with strenous moves.



Over the next two weeks I had two trips to the Wainstones, once with Rory and once with Jake. We met up with two other climbers from 'the other side' of the moors, Jack and Matthew to form 'The Moors Youth Team'.



Moors Youth Team


To finish the summer off, I had fairly relaxed weekend. I met some of the old first ascentionists of the moors which was proved interesting! Then the second day I went for a solo assault, visiting 4 crags and finally stumbling across Lee Robinson for a spot of bouldering, although my ankle was bodged so I didn't do anything.

Thanks to Franco and Dave who've been kind enough to give me several lifts to various crags and showing me rarely climbed gems which lie hidden deep in the Valleys in return for tea and cake.


Looking back, it's been a great summer with some fantastic memories; and as September now brings colder mornings, I think about the experience gained and another chapter turned in my climbing apprenticeship, knowing that I wouldn't have come so far if it wasn't for the spirit that the moors gives.


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