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Wednesday, 31 August 2011

Round Crag - Fingers, Shins and F.A.'s

Sunday began with a trip over the moor to meet Franco and Dave. The crag on the cards was Round Crag, one with a reputation for having hard, bold and often sandbagged routes. It was also pretty windy.....
Franco and Dave were psyched to get on their ground up project, dubbed 'the leaping cougar'.

They began attempting it ground up whilst I looked to see what fortunes were to be found on the lower boulder. Now dubbed 'The Chocolate Box'

'Can you do the Can Can' font 6a+ * climbs the overhanging right arete of the north side onto the slab. And 'The Candy Man Can' font 6b+ * climbs the overhang direct up the centre and onto the slab.

Good gear at half height.


After some more attempts on the unclimbed wall by Franco and Dave, Dave finally cracked it using a tiny broken gaston. Franco then also managed it and they graded 'Mane Vision' E5 6c,  keeping with the 'lion' theme of the butress.


Wicked Willy! / Psycho Sam!

Although E5 6c, is rather a long way out of my league, I though as I may as well have a go! especially as it is so well protected.

Hard rock-up for a two finger crimp.


The moves up from the break really are ace, but very thin and very hard! After a few attempts, I managed to get into the crimp, which was poor! A two finger crimp, which at first felt good, but as soon as you moved position, it was very hard to stay in. After trying to rock up, I fell off. Unfortunately, my poor judgement meant that my shin gave a legde below with a hollow 'whack'. I lowered and we saw white! thankfully it was only a fatty layer between the skin and the shin.

That was enough for me, although the moves are superb! and it makes quite a ground up project which is quite unique to the crag!

Overall, a pretty bon day!

Check out Dave Warburton's Vimeo to see the video of 'Mane Vision' E5 6c

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