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Friday, 29 April 2011

Moors Development

Over the past month or so, there has been another surge of moors development! and it is something i am pleased to have been part of. We have developed a new major bouldering venue, found another venue. Me and Jake a found a new crag and also a new butress at camp hill.

First off is clemmits, which is still providing more and more boulders with several new lines. I'm pretty sure it's going to be the new font of the moors!
Then, last thursday, I was out for a quick tick of the list with Lee, however it turned out to be a good picknick venue with atleast 50+ problems!
Then, the next satuday, myself and Jake Hampshire thought we'd try ou look yet again in Pickering woods. Its always been a complete pile of choss and the only climbing we'd done was some ice on the icicles formed in the winter. For those who have climbed at white stone, imagine the looseness 15 times over and you've got 'the woods'. But anyway, we decided we may aswell put a route up.

The line is still to be named but it is a two pitch Vdiff. Although some who have no experience of loose climbing will find the climbing at around E5 3c.

The route in volves a choice of either chimeying between the rock and the tree which is probably less strenous although much more exposed to death by stonefall. The other way is to begin by chimneying untill pointless gear on the leaft. Then swing round and hug the tree untill just befor the branch. Then make a stradle between the tree and the rock and leap for the branch to the 'belay'. It is recomended that the second leads through. Beware when in the hanging belay, as we found out, its pretty easy for the leader to knock of ankle breakers.......

The next day, we headed back to clemmits where we met Lee and he introduced us to Mick, Rob and Luke. We tried out the moors bus which is really good but meant for a 'little bit of a walk in'. After clemmits we headed over to camp hill where I was keen to check out a small overhanging butress about 500 metres north of the main butress. Its not particularly high, around 8 metres but has some good looking lines. One of which we did, The F.A. of  "Avoiding the truth" HS 4c *, takes the line of corner ledges up the leaft hand side. It then traverses leaft under the overhang, sneakily avoiding it. Then it heads up the thin crack (a knee bar can be helpful).

The other two lines are the overhang direct which looks around E3 6a and the slab into hanging groove which i tried but fell off in the heat which I reckon must be around E1.

After that I returned to the main butress where i managed cling wrap HVS 5b ** which id tried once before. Then we power marched back down the road in the heat for a few km. just in time to catch the bus!

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