Wednesday, 4 May 2011

Clemmit's, Camp hill and Stormy hall

Last week-end was the betaguides moors meet. On saturday I headed up to clemmits and met Lee, Mark and Aiden along with some of their friends and were later met by Steve Ramsden and James Oakes.We uncovered yet more boulders producing more good problems. The next day me and Jake headed up with going to camp hill in mind to try my groove. We were given a lift by James and his friend so we decided to head down to clemmits first to check out the action. I tried my project, the sit start to 'A seal of aproval' but its still desperate. Probably above 7b+, a grade I have not nearly reached yet!

After the that we trudged back up the hill and met Luke Hunt and his friends who apear to have been a right moors shredding session!

Then we carried on to camp hill where Jake made the second ascent of 'On edge' Font 6a+ ** which he was pretty pleased with. Then we headed up to the main crag where Jake onsighted tempest, given VS 5a but most certainly HVS as there is no real gear. Then I also lead after. There is also 'Ace of winds' which is a must to go back for.

However, what i'd really gone for was my groove. First, Jake made the second ascent of 'Avoiding the truth' HS 4c * which i made the first ascent of last week. Then I got back on  the groove attemting it ground up, but it is truly desperate (especially in the direct heat) to get inot the groove - seems to need a weird sequence. So we sacked that one off yet again for another day. Then I had a go at the big roof on top rope which feels suprisingly do-able although I didn't link the moves.

After that we 'power trudged' to stormy hall. It's a place i'd only ever paid a 30 second visit to in the rain and I only got to see the body torque block which looked pretty good! When we arrived we found some pretty cool highballs/solo's on quarried sandstone with some boulders below. There was also a big juggy over hanging burtess which I dispatched. I reckon about font 5+ if you escape right once holding the top. And maybe 6a+ direct. Then we did some short solo's on the high butresses to the leaft of body torque above a bloody steep landing! Then we went down to the lower boulders where there are some alright roofs into slabs and lip traverses.

To be fair its the shortest walk in ever but theres a lot of littler about and a mogority of the climbs are fairly medeocre in my opinion. But its still worth a visit in passing. Maybe i'll go back some time and see if i'm wrong and maybe the litter problem is just recently and just dissaprear soon!

Appologies for slagging off stormy hall a bit but i didnt have the best of visits.

And been as i feel a bit guilty now, here's a picture from Steve Ramsden pf him on his superb 'Body Torgue' font 7b+

Anyway, its still clear that there's stacks leaft on the moors to be climbed. Psyched!

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