Pickering Woods and Peak Scar

Back in November, me Jake and Tom continued our exploits in Pickering woods. Despite the crags only being between 8 and 20 metres high, there's a significant feeling of adventure, mostly due to the horrifically loose rock (video to come). There are still many more lines left on the creeping buttress, but one stands out from the rest. The large roof was our target for this day. Jake first attempted to free the roof, but the roof proved difficult and he eventually secumed to aid.

A Strenuous Roof   VS 4b A1 We will no doubt come back and free the magnificent roof.

I noticed recently that various cretins on ukc complained at the fact that in our aid climbing video i was apparently belaying too far back, most definitely the most dangerous part of the ascent ahaha. and also unavoidable, do to the steep bank below the route and the fact that when rocks fall down, they hit you on the head. Anyway, during Jake's ascent we photographed my new belaying style.

The typical Pickering woods climbing lout.

I also went to peak scar recently, one of my favourite moors crags, with Rory and Matthew. We climbed a few routes which was cool including a superb ascent of ornithology.

Then we tried to climb the full traverse again as a three, which proved eventful, climbing pitches and realising we'd actually soloed them. Then we simulclimbed a few pitches, though we didn't really know what we were doing... We ended up abseiling off, then the rope got stuck, tried prusicking, failed, so soloed back up and freed them again. All in all, a good day.

Last weekend I met Matthew Ferrier at camp hill crag. Basically, this is just about my favourite crag on the moors! And although it lacks in size, the quality is amazing. If you're visiting the moors, and you want a bit of esoterica with some of the best climbing in the country, go to camp hill.

I still had a bit of unfinished business to do. I still hadn't done cling direct, or the direct start, nor had I done Ace of winds or anything on the pick pocket buttress.

We did Cling wrap direct and the direct start, which was really good to finally complete the 'cling wrap trilagy'.
Matthew soloed a few of the easier routes and then we climbing 'ace of winds'. This is the other route I'd really wanted to do for a long time.



Camp Hill seems to just be one of those crags which isn't particularly extensive (although there are several other brilliant smaller buttresses) but every line is classic. After this Dave Warburton rather unexpectedly turned up. He showed us a few of Mike Adams' new boulder problems, and then we went and had a go on the pick pocket buttress. Pick pocket, the central life still confuses me as to how on earth to climb it!

So all in all, a superb day at my favourite crag in the moors :)

Wainstones avec Jake and Matthew

We headed up for the steens yet again. Jake had his eyes set on leading concave wall, so after some puntering about he lead it in fine style. As he started, his dad turned up who immediately told him to
"Put some gear in son!"
"But there isn't any yet dad"
"Well sort it out!"
"But there isn't any till that break!"
"Oh, well don't fall off, hardest ascent those Ronny's have ever seen you know!"
Any way, once his dad's unhelpful wittering he got to the top.

I on the other hand didn't have such a productive day, I tried west sphinx direct, but ended up down climbing from the move into the break. I didn't really do much else, but the Matthew Ferrier turned up so we did a bit of bouldering on the slab. We had a pretty good time and did all of the problems on the slab, the hardest of which, the 6a, Jake managed before me so I was a bit pissed off, but never mind. All in all, all I managed was a solo ascent of central route but not to worry.

If you're not flying, you're not trying HVS 5b A2 video...

Peak Scar

On wednesday evening, I found my self busy phoning round, trying to find a climbing partner. After trying to contact 7 people, not one was free. Still, having not fully lost all hope, I decided I'd head to Peak scar and get a few routes in with Jack and Matthew. On arrival, I found them part way up Jordu, so I promptley tagged along up the route.

Next I was lucky enough to be offered the sharp end of the rope and so I made a suprisingly brisk ascent of 'Birdland Direct', which, having reched the top, realised I hadn't really placed much gear.

Matt on 'Free Bird'
I was quite pleased that Jack and Matthew were keen to try Mine and Jakes route, 'Freebird' so I went off to solo 'Downbeat', my first solo of a 'longer' route, despite it not being very hard. I returned and again met them at the mid point belay. Matthew led the top pitch over the roof which I think he enjoyed?!

I also met Stephen Brown at the crag, which was interesting to meat one of the past moors activists and hear what he had to say....

Highcliffe Nab and Almscliff

After the kind offer of a lift from Jake's dad, we ventures to Highcliffe! This is a crag I've always been interested in but never really had the chance to go to. We took rather the wrong line up to the crag, attempting to clamber directly over the felled trees, falling down numerous holes and falling down the hill. When we got there, the crag looked damp, but still in high spirits, he decided it'd be right!

We messed about on some of the easy but fun lines, of the classic 'Highcliffe Crack' and 'North West Route'.

Then I decided I'd like a go at 'Scarecrow Crack' despite its poor condition and general dampness! The start was tricky, but once in the crack I felt quite comfortable. I placed some good gear, and then moved up to the crack to just below the large ledge. The crack was greasy and somewhat damp, I got my feet on a good nobble, and my hands on a sloping hold, I began to get tired. I thought about going down for a rest, but then slip, and I was off. Shame really and by this time I wasn't really in a fit state go go all the way back up again! :( Jake had a go, but also found the conditions tricky.

After this, thoughts turned back to Pickering Woods and our recent ground breaking ascents.

New aid tool?

By now, it was about time to go. I actually enjoyed the crag though and shall definitely be back! Scarecrow crack and Stargazer await!...

The next day, I was thank full to receive a lift from the parents who were off to Harrogate. I decided to go to Almscliff, despite having no partner to climb with...

Upon arriving at the crag, I saw and heard the busy, blue helmeted youths cluttering the lower crag. However, determined to not let this dent my psyche, I decided this could be a useful asset in case I fell off something...  I started off on the classic 'Matterhorn Arete', only a boulder problem, but high, and well worth it. On my first attempt, I got almost to the top, but as I smeared and reached for the top hold, out came the wail from one of the kids on fluted columns, it put me right off, and so I down climbed, but did it next go.

I over heard one of the instructors mention 'Birdsnest Crack' so I rushed up to 'High Man' before it was massacred. I soloed a few vs' including 'Stomach traverse', 'Birdsnest crack' and 'The nose'. Then I bumbled about on a few boulders, climbing a few cool slabs...

Then, to finish off, I did some enjoyable solos of the routes on 'Low Man' rounding off what turned out to be a pretty good day!

Pickering woods aid climbing

Our most local crag is Pickering woods. Previously is has seen development, however these are somewhat unknown and probably fallen down. The 1984 guide states 'Newton dale: Routes have been recorded on these extensive crags, however, due to the unstable nature of the rock, they are not recommended.'

As those who climb there (me, tom and Jake) know, this is far from true, and if the crag were in the peak district, it would be more popular than stoney middleton and cheedale. Earlier this year, me and Jake put up 'Wall and Tree Chimney' a 14 metre 2 pitch vdiff ***.

There are several other lines to be climbed, but one that had taken our fancy was the steep cracks and head wall dubbed 'script wall'.

We had looked at the wall several times, the upper section was not well protected and quite hard! Then earlier this year, Jake and Tom abseiled down and placed a piton and an old bolt off a kids swing. Jake managed to free the line up to half height, but then lowered off the 'bomber' swing bolt, the next wall looked hard!

Prior to the line being clean...


But instead, this week, we decided to aid the route...

Jake began the tenuous moves to start the climb, managing to place a nut in a brittle crack, he steadily pulled upward gaining a high ledge, sandwiched between Stilton. At first he was concerned, where had the bolt gone?! But there it was, sitting there sweating, despite the cold, in a band of cheddar. I was impressed by Jake's quick and apparently unhindered free ascent of the bottom section however, the next bit looked hard and tenuous aid.

Starting the aid section plus in situ camera man.

Jake began; stood in a sling from the bolt, he reached up, a placed a sketchy sky hook, he pulled on it and managed to reach the previously placed peg. He clipped it with a sling and stood on it. However, looking at it more closely, he was not sure on its solidarity. So out came the hammer, and he bashed it back in, still standing in the sling. The next section was the crux, Jake stood up and placed a sky hook on a small edge. He pulled on it. Ping! the sky hook ripped and he was back at the peg, thankfully it held! He regained composure and went for it again, finding another edge, he managed to stand in the sky hook, and reached over the top of the crag, nothing! He scraped around in the dirt for a while until he began to tire, once again, he was off, this time a bigger fall, concerning us as to the 'soundness' of the peg. It was beginning to get dark now and he had one last chance, placing the sky hook a third time, he stood in it, grabbed a tree root and pulled over the top. The route had been done, though not free, and with far more effort than we first thought. Aiding is hard!

F.A. of 'If you're not flying, you're not trying' HVS 5b A2 **

A few days later, I returned to the woods with Jake to attempt new routes on some of the other buttresses...

Creeper wall.

We abbed down two lines, knocking off most of the loose rock, I then decided to lead my new route, 'The Grim Creeper' VS 4b.

For those who revel in a bit o choss, this is turning out to be not such a bad crag! ;)