I started up the very first move, a long reach into a downward pointing flake. Somehow, I ended up back on the floor, my foothold had come off... Anyway, dazed, I made the move again up into the flake and to the only gear on the route, two good cams. Next, a hard pull on a flake, concentrating on the intricate footwork, I got to two good holds, where I could chalk up for the crux. On top rope, I'd always waited at this point, but for some reason i didn't seem to be able to control myself. In a total trance, a high foot and move up to the hold. (is it a hold though? I'm still not sure?) (probably deck from here?) Brilliant anyway, completely in my own world. Then, just for the top out, which was amusing, though I'm sure I didn't think so at the time... I made my post head pointing noises (oooooeeeeeaaaaplebudsfhuuuooooaaassednnddeeee) and returned to reality.
E5 6b** I reckon
.
So me and Matthew had done it! head pointed our first E5! And lets hope there is many more on the moor to come!
But the day was still young, and the unclimbed wall starting from the ledge to the right had caught our eye. Jake lead a few routes over to the right and then we abbed down the wall next to Vampiric to clean the line. Both myself and Matthew flashed the route, climbing from the ledge. We strapped a boulder mat to the ledge, but with it being sloping, it would really do anything, just meant we could stand up! We also lent over and placed the gear in Vampiric which might slow you down if you fell. The moves are great and the climbing is pretty engrossing from start to finish. Vampiric Recession E3 5c probably. On second thoughts, maybe our route 'Idle Ignorance' also at round crag is E3? but who knows?!
We finished the day over on Lion Buttress onsighting The Big Cat E2 6a** which really is quite good!
No comments:
Post a Comment