Last saturday, we headed to thorgill crag with Lee Robinson (betaguides) for some crag development and a spot of trad, and possibly even a new crag.
First if all, we went to the new crag and found it too have some lines, which were either easy or dangerous to boulder and too short to lead. We also found two boulders which Lee described as "the two greenest boulders I have ever seen in my life!"
So, we moved on to thorgill crag. First of all, I fell over and then me and Jake went to look at the trad. It was crap. But we were adamant to try something so jake had a go at this slab and failed. Then I fell over again and Tom Barr turned up! (without a harness or rock shoes) .Our eyes were now set on the bouldering and Jake began on an arete which is still yet to see a full ascent on the now called 'ore boulders'. Then Lee climbed a awquard 6a+ called 'roasted ore***' which is mint!
Mean while Jake was working on his traverse, 'crossing the rails**' font 5+.
Traversing rightwards across the block and topping out above a soft landing of rocks, boulders, sticks and a hole.
The err, very safe top out, with myself demonstrating the perfect English spotting technique.
jakes honed spotting technique where one folds one's arms and look in the opposite direction. This technique is called 'sacrificial padding'
Tom then worked on a nice right hand arete, on the face of the next boulder which faces this boulder.
Lee and me worked on some overhanging aretes and walls which we ended up leaving for the next man ;) .
After that, I fell over and 'found' another boulder further down the hill, now known as the work break boulder. My problem sit starts under the over hanging wall and climbs it direct using a hand jam and a side pull on the sloping verticle rail. 'A chizel, a pick and a walking stick**' SS font 6b+
Going for the sloping final hold.....
And finaly Lee added the sit start to the already established 'Thorsminde**' SS 6c+ On 'he Thorgill diamond' boulder.
You can find the first draft of the map to the area at http://betaguides.blogspot.com/2011/03/diamond-under-majestic-oak-and-oak-wall.html.
(mini view)
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